Cock Sparrer logo 2 Color Design




The following tutorial will show you how to use stencils to print up this 2 color Cock Sparrer logo design on a shirt.
We are printing red/white. That is the most popularly used color scheme for this logo. You dont have to limit yourself to those colors, those are just what we are using. It is difficult to print white on red so keep that in mind when choosing your colors. We have seen this design with black instead of white (red/black), black/white, white/black, and burgundy/light blue (for west ham united FC - the team cock sparrer supports). in the end, its really up to you. if you're a beginner, id suggest red with black on top. black is a color with a high opacity and would be easily printed on red.

You will need several tools for this project:

[x] A blank t-shirt (we're using a plain white t-shirt)
[x] 2 foam paint rollers - one per color (I have a trim kit I got from a home improvement store for about $3. its about 3-4in wide)
[x] a couple of tubes of non-water soluble acrylic paint(make sure its non-water soluble otherwise the print will come off in the wash; 4oz tubes are available at most craft stores for less than a dollar a tube)

[x] an x-acto knife with a sharp blade
[x] your stencils printed out to the size you want
[x] a roll of masking tap
[x] a small can of light general use spray adhesive or removable fabric glue
[x] a crappy old cutting board


As far as choosing a stock to use for cutting out of, its up to you. I've printed on shirts using cardstock, overhead acetate transparency sheets, laminated sheets of plastic, freezer paper, cereal box cardboard, foam board, etc... For a two-color design, i would recommend using acetate sheets(you can buy them from copy centers as "binding covers" or you canget them from office supply stores as "overhead projector sheets". basically glue or tape your design to the sheet and cut right through it. make sure youve got either a cutting board or a decent amount of newspaper under your cutting area so you dont cut up your kitchen table. being able to see through the stencil definately helps when trying to line up the design. You can also use Freezer Paper which generally gets the best print, but you cant see through it and you need to iron that down. The disadvantage of using freezer paper/the iron in this method is you may accidentily iron over wet registration marks and get paint on parts of the shirt you dont want to. This design isn't the best to use with freezer paper because the white is going directly on top of the red and freezer paper wont adhere to existing paint.

Print out your two designs, make sure you printed them out to the same size. If adjusting the size manually, like in paint, just make sure you copy or print them out the exact same way, with the exact same resize percentage. Cut out both your designs, including the little x's on the top left and right of the design, these are the registration marks. do your very best to cut these out the best you can because these are the x's you're going to line up to make sure the design is printed correctly.

*When printing multi-color designs, it is very important to have the shirt stay straight the entire time. If the shirt moves, the image jumps and wont line up correctly. I purchased an old oversized cutting board from a thrift shop. I like to spray the one side of the board down with spray adhesive (not too much so it doesnt come off on the shirt, and lay the shirt on the board and flatten it out so its basically glued onto the board. Most adhesive is water soluable so even if there is glue on the inside of the shirt, it probably would come off in the wash.

Take your first stencil and place it on the shirt where you want it to go. Rule of thumb is to place the top of the design 4 fingers down from the edge of the collar.



Once you have your placement down for where you will be printing the design, you need to put down some safety tape on the shirt to make sure you dont print those little x's because they're not actually apart of the design. You can put down a few strips of masking tape on the shirt under where the x's are being placed. make sure you dont put any tape under other areas of the shirt where the actual stencil needs to go.



Once you have your placement and your safety tape down, I would suggest either very very lightly spraying down the underside of your first stencil, or simply taping down the stencil to make sure it wont move. I dont like to use either but instead I have a ruler that I use to weigh down the stencil during more difficult areas of printing so there arent any leaks. You do risk the possibility of pulling the shirt up and jumping your later prints if you use too much adhesive or if you take your tape off too violently. We're dealing with only a couple ounces of cloth here, so be gentle. If you're using Freezer Paper, you dont really have to worry about spraying the underside of your design or taping it because you're ironing your stencil down.

Take the first color you're looking to print, we're printing red, and pour some into your paint tray. (or makeshift paint tray - i used empty cardboard boxes before getting my trim kit which came with its own plastic tray) Use a little paint at first, and roll your roller through it, trying to cover as much of your roller as you can, not just a bit here and there. A good consistancy is reached when you're running your roller through the paint and you begin to hear a slight sticking/slapping noise of the paint bubbles on the roller. Now run your roller over your design, apply enough pressure with the roller to make a stain on the shirt. you can always apply more paint later so dont worry about using too much too fast. cover every section of your design including the x's, and make sure you dont print outside your print area onto sections of the shirt you dont want paint on. If you're done covering your design, glance over your printed area and see if some areas are more opaque than others. If you can still see white of the shirt, go over that area again with a little more paint. Once you're done, take off your stencil gently and slowly. There is no rush. Make sure you dont pull the shirt off your cutting board or whatever its glued to because you can jump the design. Try not to pull too hard because if you do, it can take the shirt off the board, moving the original layer which will cause the second layer not to line up so well. if you're using clear acetate sheets and you jump the first print, you can always adjust it by hand before printing the second layer since you can see right through your second stencil.



Wait for your design to dry to the touch. If you're impatient or in a rush, you could blow dry the paint dry. If certain areas aren't dry to the touch, they can come off when you print later layers. When your print is dry, take your second stencil and line up your little x's (registration marks) and if you have a clear acetate stencil, you can see where the new layer will be printed. This design is pretty trapped (the layers line up pretty closely), so do your very best to line up your stencils accurately. If you think you need to move the stencil or the shirt around to make it line up better, do so accordingly. As for placing your second layer down, you can either tape it or lightly glue it. taping works for keeping the stencil in one place but gluing works better for keeping all areas of the stencil down on the shirt so there isnt much room for leaks. This design isn't the best to use with freezer paper because the white is going directly on top of the red and freezer paper wont adhere to existing paint.



Take the second color you're looking to print, we're printing white, and follow the same methods printing your design as you did with the first layer. Use a different roller of course. If you only have one roller, know that trying to wash out one and then print another doesnt really work because these things take a long time to dry. They're generally hard to rinse out too. You dont have to worry about printing the x's this time over, just make sure you over all the areas of the design that you need to and you dont print in areas you dont want to print. The white goes directly on top of the red, so take it slow and try not blotch up your print. You can always go over it later with a paintbrush or do another print when the first one is dry to get a more opaque print.



Once youre done printing your second and final layer, take off your second layer. You dont really have to worry about taking off the stencil too roughly because you're just gonna take the shirt off and leave it somewhere to dry. Watch when you do move the shirt when wet so you dont get wet paint anywhere you dont want paint on.



Now you can take off your safety tape and wait for your shirt to dry. Once its all dry, you can put a piece of paper over my design and iron out the top of my finished stencil just to flatten it out. I do surface of the print through a piece of paper and later turn the shirt inside out and iron the inside of the design as well.

I hope your stamp print came out good. If it didnt, save the shirt because you can always use it later for test prints or whatever else. If you have pictures of your finished prints and you want to send them in, use the suggestion box form, and I'll post them on this page.